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Cimexa, Diatomaceous Earth, and Borax questions

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  1. howdidigetbb

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Sun Aug 28 2016 13:10:53
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    I'm looking for advice on the best way to use Cimexa, Diatomaceous Earth, and Borax in the fight against bed bugs.

    We are getting ready to treat the bedroom floor, outlets, and walls for bedbugs and was wondering which is more effective in the treatment/killing of bed bugs. I know that neither kill on contact, but that both slowly kill and that with both, they pick up the substance and take it back to the nest. I have a 4oz bottle of Ciamexa that I got from Amazon and a bag of Diatomaceous Earth that I got from the local co-op. Is one better over the other (sounds like from this post that overall Cimexa is more effective) or does one to better than the other under different circumstances? Like maybe Diatomaceous Earth is better for cracks in hardwood floors and Cimexa is better in electrical outlets for instance??? Also, I have read that Borax is also a tool to fight bed bugs. What is the best way to use that? Also on Borax, is that the same thing as 20 Mule Team Borax that you buy in the grocery store on the laundry isle?

    I also have a can each of Alpine and Harris Bed Bug Spray. I have to use those sparingly because I have Asthma and things like that can trigger an attack.

    I also plan to use my newly purchased steamer. Our bed is a Temperpedic and have read that bed bugs cannot infest those types of mattresses very well. I do have a bed bug cover on that and have wrapped the base with 3mil plastic. I'm also waiting on the arrival of a Zapp Bug Heater.

  2. jim danca

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Sun Aug 28 2016 13:14:49
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    More often than not, electrical outlets don't really need to be treated. Cimexa gets better results than DE, but both need to be lightly applied.

    PCO and inventor of a bio active bedbug trap
  3. howdidigetbb

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Sun Aug 28 2016 13:49:57
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    Jim, What order do I need to work in as far as vacuum, steam, organic, chemical and what areas must be treated with chemical and what areas are better with organic solutions?

    I am also strongly leaning towards a heat treatment on my house as well. The psychological effects on me have been significant, maybe to the point of needing counseling.

    Any advice on which type of professional service is best, heat or chemical, or both? My main issue is how do I know when they're gone, how do I keep from taking them out of the house when I go to work, church, shopping, friends ect... and how do I keep from bringing back in once they're gone.

  4. Nobugsonme

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Sun Aug 28 2016 15:59:20
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    Cimexa or DE can work. Many experts suggest Cimexa now. I wouldn't bother with Borax and I wouldn't use both Cimexa and DE at once.

    As for methods, a PMP like Jim is likely to tell you he doesn't prefer heat treatment since he uses other methods. A heat treatment provider would tell you heat is best. I'm just saying there's going to be bias of you ask a service provider this. That's not to say some of their reasonings won't be legit.

    Professional treatments involving steam, residual chemical and dust can work well, usually in a few visits. A pro doing this is likely to be successful more quickly than you are. They may be using better products in some cases. Note many won't treat if you've already done so, so consider skipping the DIY and calling someone in first. I'd choose this method if I thought I had a PCO that would do a careful (slow) job, ideally using steam, residuals and dust.

    Heat treatment can work well, but all companies are not equal. Moreover, many now add a chemical or dust treatment routinely, to kill survivors. That's more or less an acknowledgement that they may not always get everything. If you choose a heat team, I'd look for a company who has a good reputation, a lot of experience, and I'd lean toward those who do the dust or chemical treatment on top just in case. Look for a guarantee.

    Know also that no treatment will succeed if you are getting bed bugs from attached neighbors or have been bringing them in from somewhere you go routinely.

    I started and run the site but am "not an expert."
  5. Nobugsonme

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Sun Aug 28 2016 16:01:52
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    Note we have FAQs on pest control and also on how to avoid spreading bed bugs (under travel-- but the methods will work all the same). There's a link to FAQs in the top menu, and an alternative list of FAQs some prefer in the "green stickies" on the first page of the forums. Let me know if you have trouble finding the relevant ones.

  6. jim danca

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Sun Aug 28 2016 17:06:33
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    Don't forget that steam is just a contact killer. How many bugs total did you find? Don't forget that they like to aggregate with one another. Finding the harborage is critical and so is monitoring after any treatment.

  7. howdidigetbb

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Sun Aug 28 2016 17:36:12
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    All the bed bugs we found were in the corners of the Temperpedic bed foundation. This is the one where you can move the feet and head up and down. It's only about 4" tall. We encased that in 3mil plastic, but I think the way we did it is providing stragglers a place to congregate. I wanted to put plastic on the floor, flip the frame over and then cut holes where the feet of the frame go. They are about a foot or 18" in from the edges, and there are 6 of them. My husband wanted to take the framework off, encase the foundation, and then put the framework back on. There are creases and folds in the corners where the plastic is pushed up to allow for the framework to go back on. I tried to explain that this wouldn't work, but he's and engineer. Nuff said... So, now I think we need to flip the foundation back over and do what I wanted to do in the first place where there are not creases and folds.

    I understand that steam is a contact killer, that DE/Cimexa are descendants that slowly kill by slicing the body up so the bug dries up, and that chemicals kill now and later. Like I said, I have mild asthma and sometimes chemicals and smells will set it off, so I would like to avoid that if at all possible.

    The other thing I'm thinking of doing is getting rid of my wooden headboard/footboard and replacing with a metal one. Any thoughts on that? The current one is hard to get the climpup traps under because the the size of the part that touches the floor on the headboard. It's about 8" wide and 1" thick.

  8. nomorebugs01

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Mon Aug 29 2016 14:51:03
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    What climb ups are most recommended?

  9. jim danca

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Mon Aug 29 2016 15:51:39
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    Don't forget that bedbugs love wood. Be sure to check the backside of the headboard/footboard.

  10. Itchyinthecity

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Mon Aug 29 2016 18:32:17
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    Nobugsonme - 1 day ago  » 
    Cimexa or DE can work. Many experts suggest Cimexa now. I wouldn't bother with Borax and I wouldn't use both Cimexa and DE at once.

    If I've already used DE and want to use cimexa instead, should I try to remove the DE first? Is there a danger to mixing, or is it just overkill?

  11. Nobugsonme

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Mon Aug 29 2016 22:35:24
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    Itchyinthecity - 4 hours ago  » 

    Nobugsonme - 1 day ago  » 
    Cimexa or DE can work. Many experts suggest Cimexa now. I wouldn't bother with Borax and I wouldn't use both Cimexa and DE at once.

    If I've already used DE and want to use cimexa instead, should I try to remove the DE first? Is there a danger to mixing, or is it just overkill?

    I don't know if you need to worry about deterring bed bugs if you're using them in the same spot.

    If using in different spots, I can't imagine it's an issue.

    My point was there was no use in using both on top of each other, though I would leave it to the experts to say whether you should apply them both in the same spot.

  12. howdidigetbb

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Mon Aug 29 2016 22:40:21
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    I forgot to add that I have climbups on all the bed feet/wheels except the 2 at the head of the bed. The reason is that they are to wide to fit inside the climbups. I think I have my husband talked into a metal bedframe which will allow for climbups on all points touching the floor and no chance of them hiding/nesting in the metal (???), right???

    On the climbups, I can only check the ones under the footboard legs. The ones on the bedframe are to far under the bed for me to see. I have found 1 bedbug in one of the climbups under the footboard.

    We were out of town again this past weekend and my son again slept in our bed. He again got lots of bites, at least 5 or 6 and maybe more. Some may be mosquito bites, but definitely not all. I have two whole days off this coming up weekend and plan to devote the entire time to bedbug search and destroy.

  13. Nobugsonme

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    Posted 3 years ago
    Tue Aug 30 2016 22:43:34
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    howdidigetbb - 23 hours ago  » 
    I forgot to add that I have climbups on all the bed feet/wheels except the 2 at the head of the bed. The reason is that they are to wide to fit inside the climbups. I think I have my husband talked into a metal bedframe which will allow for climbups on all points touching the floor and no chance of them hiding/nesting in the metal (???), right???ays off this coming up weekend and plan to devote the entire time to bedbug search and destroy.

    Some PCOs think metal bedframes are better. At least one (David Cain) thinks they're not.

    Moreover, just because you have interceptor traps on the bed legs and a new metal bed frame does not mean there's zero chance of bed bugs nesting in the bed. Theoretically it's possible to "isolate the bed", but in practice, it's pretty hard work. If you ever sit somewhere in the home and then get up and get in bed, you just potentially brought bed bugs into the bed.

    It's certainly an approach that some people seem to use with success, but there are no guarantees, and there are other options.


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