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Hardwood floors w/cracks

(11 posts)
  1. bedbugsenigma

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    Posted 6 years ago
    Fri Feb 8 2008 21:34:25
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    I had several chemical treatments and no success, probably for a combination of reasons, including my hardwood floors with innumerable and sometimes large/deep cracks between boards. I read somewhere on this forum that a steamer may help. Has anyone successfully used a steamer for hardwood floors? What kind?

  2. bugbasher

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    Posted 6 years ago
    Fri Feb 8 2008 22:26:17
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    BBE, I don't think the steamer would work for that application,only because the bb's would be too insulated under the wood for the heat to reach them at the right temperature.Did your pco put any dust in the cracks at all? That would seem to me the most logical thing to do,but see what others think.

  3. bedbugsenigma

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    Posted 6 years ago
    Fri Feb 8 2008 22:38:18
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    There are so many cracks that I don't think dust would work. Also, it becomes airborne and I live/work in my apt. so I would get completely intoxicated. I have thought of putting down linoleum, although I hate it and I also suspect it may be a temporary and eventually ineffective solution. At the first tear they would get out. I wish I could just throw cement and be done with this problem or at least with what I think is their preferred harborage!

  4. bedbugsenigma

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    Posted 6 years ago
    Fri Feb 8 2008 23:21:00
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    Bugbasher, I sent you a PM asking you about a message you wrote some time ago. Pls read it when you get a chance. Thx.

  5. lil_bit_obsessed

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    Posted 6 years ago
    Sat Feb 9 2008 2:04:05
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    i did two things with my hardwood floors. one, i went out and bought a clear silicone caulk (flexible) and caulked up the largest cracks. two, i bought some DE (food grade diatomaceous earth, look it up in the forums) and put the dust in the smaller cracks that were too hard and too numerous to seal with caulk. that seemed to do the trick for me. i live and work in my apartment as well, but DE is pretty non-toxic compared to the alternatives...

  6. Battleofthebugs

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    Posted 6 years ago
    Sun Feb 10 2008 1:04:56
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    I did the same thing as lil_bit. It is time consuming to caulk all the cracks and crevices, but I think well worth the time! You'll be eliminating places where they can hide and nest.

    We also had gaps around places where wiring went into the wall, and where the radiator pipe went into the floor. I did use silicon caulk for the pipe, but then read on here that something called great stuff worked better for gaps around pipes (which we used on other pipes once we knew better). I have found the DE dust settles fairly quickly if you apply it correctly (light dusting, in the crack/crevice, or as close to it as possible). I'm pretty sensitive to chemicals, but was fine wearing a mask and gloves when I applied the DE, and even sleeping in the bedroom afterwards.

  7. crawledon

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    Posted 6 years ago
    Sun Feb 10 2008 3:38:16
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    2-3 coats of oil based polyurethane was suggested to me. Enough to fill in the cracks and seal the suckers (literally) in.

  8. bedbugsenigma

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    Posted 6 years ago
    Sun Feb 10 2008 16:03:23
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    Thank you all! I am not a handy person at all (I started filling my cracks with hardening wood filler..) but will look for someone who can show me how to caulk my floor cracks with transparent silicone and will get the job done. It's going to take a while as there are hundreds of cracks.

    I am worried about applying DE because I read it is suspected of having cancerogenic effects (lungs). I really would not want to breath DE and if there is any air current that can bring those minuscule particles in the air, we would sure breath them - don't you think?

    Crawledon, how did you apply polyurethane with all your furniture in place? Also, did you use a brand that dries quickly? My cracks are between 1 and 5 millimeters wide. Aren't they too wide for polyurethane to work? Because even if it goes in, it will not fill the gap - would it?

  9. RB

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    Posted 5 years ago
    Mon Aug 3 2009 22:01:21
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    ugh, I have big gaps in my 1930s wood floors, they've never been re-done. all along the baseboards and a a few places in the middle of the room.

    I will speak to the PCO before any treatment is done and see what they think about DE. I know they treat with a dust, maybe I can just seal after they treat, save me buying a respirator.

    So great stuff for around heat pipes and radiators, clear silicone for the floors. Do people seal in the walls behind switchplate and outlet covers? I have plaster walls, so everywhere a hole has been drilled in the past is an open space to the whole wall cavity. I guess I know what I will be doing every night for the next few weeks.

  10. spideyjg

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    Posted 5 years ago
    Mon Aug 3 2009 22:20:36
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    RB - 17 minutes ago  » 

    So great stuff for around heat pipes and radiators, clear silicone for the floors. Do people seal in the walls behind switchplate and outlet covers? I have plaster walls, so everywhere a hole has been drilled in the past is an open space to the whole wall cavity. I guess I know what I will be doing every night for the next few weeks.

    This is better for around heaters. Maybe a HVAC high temp qualified foam sealant for the bulk but this for the surface seal.

    http://www.bramec.com/categories/detail.asp?cat=3120

    Do your homework on caulks/sealants and get the right stuff for the surfaces.

    Jim

  11. RB

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    Posted 5 years ago
    Mon Aug 3 2009 22:28:12
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    great thanks. I'll research before hitting the hardware stores on Saturday.


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